A Cryptic Traditional Catholic Travelogue 11: The Vendée – Home to a Counter-Revolution



The Vendée – how little remembered by secular history …


Introduction 2013: This is the eleventh part of a very personal little series I wrote whilst travelling through France in the summer of 2010.

It was a tremendous privilege and grace to be able to visit the Vendée – the home of the French Counter-Revolution. And also the home of a terrible genocide. For when the French Counter-Revolution broke out, how the French Revolutionaries retaliated! A scorched earth policy was adopted whereby whole villages were razed to the ground. By some accounts, as many as 300,000 men, women and children were massacred – to ‘protect’ the new secular values of the French state.

This series is probably best appreciated by commencing with the first part here about the start of my journey in Lourdes in the south.

From 2010:

The Vendée!

Recently we have driven in a hurry up through the French Southwest.

But here, here, it is necessary to stop a moment and pause.

For here is a France so very different from the rest.

Here is the France of the Counter-Revolution, where peasants revolted to defend their faith, to defend the monarchy.

And one can register the echoes of this Other France still resounding here.

I meet an old man. One his right forearm is tattooed – large and prominently – the Cross.

And is that the Blessed Virgin on the other forearm?

He indicates that such things were still common in his Vendée youth.

An old lady tells me how all the churches were completely full here once. No-one missed the Holy Mass.

Another old man: when he says the word “Republique” it is as though he SPITS it out in anger…

This Republic, celebrated all across the land …

This Republic, I am sure this old man was raised in a culture, where few indeed had yet forgotten all that the Republic laid waste to.

Memory is long here in France.

Even the comic-books here are about the past epochs of France. So different to the fantastic, futuristic comics of my Anglophone youth.

Yes, memory is long in these parts. And here in the West of France, one finds the honoured tombs of the Martyrs of the Revolution, murdered out of hatred for the faith.

The memorials say things like that.

Here in this land, where men took up arms to save the soul of France from the Revolutionary horror.


Vendée flag

Contemporary Flag of the Vendée, adopted 1989, still displaying the Sacred and Immaculate Hearts. It is easy to imagine this is the only flag in the world with the Sacred Heart.


And the village churches here are enormous, of a greater proportion to their surroundings than any I have ever seen.

And like in Ireland, they frequently hail not from the Middle Ages, but the Nineteenth Century.

In Ireland, the Anglican Church took over all the medieval churches and forbid the dominant Catholic population to build new ones.

But when Catholic Emancipation was completed in 1829, the Irish covered their Blessed Island with Catholic Churches.

Oddly, the Vendée feels a little like Catholic Ireland.

In the Nineteenth Century, it had the same sort of piety.

And it built the same style of churches, Nineteenth Century neo-gothic.

Either because the bloody terrible suppression of the Counter-Revolution had demolished the old churches …

Or because the pious legions demanded much bigger churches than had previously existed.

The Vendée …

How you were mocked by Republican France!

Your inhabitants were called “backward” and even compared to the missing link.

Not unlike the way many “superior and cultured souls” treated the Irish …

Ireland … The Vendée …

How deeply grateful I feel for your centuries of devotion and piety.

How deeply grateful I am for the alternative you forged to dry, dessicated secular materialism.

How deeply grateful I am for the privilege of having walked upon your humble, hallowed soil …

To Be Continued …

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Next Installment: A Cryptic Traditional Catholic Travelogue 12

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  1. Patricia Ray
    Posted 11 August 2014 at 21:38 | Permalink

    Appreciate you comments concerning the war of the Vendee. Never remember this being in our History books in High School. First time heard about it was the movie ” War of the Vendee” shown on EWTN, with a cast of all children. It must have been very emotional to be in France where all of this happened. Didn’t much like History in High School, but now its more important in my Senior years of life. Than you so much from the personal perspective visiting France. Want to learn more about this. God bless You and thank you. Your friend in Christ, Pat

    • Posted 15 August 2014 at 13:22 | Permalink

      Pat, thank you so much for these kind, supportive comments, here and elsewhere. I am a little slow in replying, but I do appreciate them!

      As for history, I learned nothing about the French Revolution either. But if I had, I suspect it would all have been taught as though it were progress for the rights of man – as that is still celebrated in France today.

      As it happened, untold millions of Catholics undoubtedly felt their rights were being eradicated. And when they objected, they were frequently murdered. …

  2. Elizabeth
    Posted 2 May 2018 at 19:14 | Permalink

    This is a lovely post about the Vendee. I am hoping to go there this summer, and was wondering if you had any traveling advice for me as to where to stay and how to get around. I do not speak French. Will that be a problem or do the people there generally speak English? And do you know of any traditional Catholics/ Catholic churches in the Vendee? What places would you recommend for me to see?

6 Trackbacks

  1. […] also touch on counter-revolution and counter-Enlightenment matters here and […]

  2. […] The call is for establishing these by tearing down what generations had once held dear – even if it means genocide, in certain cases at least (e.g. the Vendée in France). […]

  3. […] « A Cryptic Traditional Catholic Travelogue 9: Liberal Catholicism, like a Sieve … French Fragments: A Cryptic Travelogue for Any Who Care to Listen (Part XI: The Vendée) » […]

  4. […] started in the south at Lourdes and ended in the northwest having come up through the Vendée and having visited Loublande, home of Claire Ferchaud (as I wrote in the immediately previous […]

  5. […] are pieces about our travels through the Vendée and the wasteland that Catholic France is […]

  6. […] is also a little blog here about my pilgrimage to the Vendée in France – home of the Counter-Revolution to the French Revolution […]

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